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Conversion of a Williams game to JAMMA is not exactly simple, nor is it complex. Most conversions consist of merely the cables, a few switches to access the setup and test menus and a volume pot. If you follow this illustrated guide you should easily be able to get your Williams game up and running in a JAMMA cab in just a few hours. This document aims give you all the information you need to convert a Williams boardset, finishing with an Example Robotron to JAMMA Conversion. This article applies only to original Williams Defender, Stargate, Robotron, Joust, Sinistar and Bubbles video games and assumes that your boards are compatible and working properly. You can identify you boards on my Williams Hardware Identification and Compatibility Page.
The CPU, ROM and Sound boards all need various voltages to power them. The interface board and the Sinistar speech board do not need power as they obtain it through their ribbon cable, though the inputs to the interface board will need grounding, but that will be covered in the controls section. If you wish to replace the Williams PSU in your game with a modern switching PSU, this part of the JAMMA conversion is all you need.
The Video wiring is the most difficult part of a Williams to JAMMA conversion. The Manuals state that the boards only output Vertical (Vsync) and Horizontal (Hsync) sync pulses with positive polarity, yet a true JAMMA monitor requires negative composite (Csync). However, in most cases we are lucky, as all boards except for early Defenders have positive Csync available. This can either be inverted or a simple modification can be carried out to give you the required negative Csync.
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1J3![]() ![]() |
Early Series Defender CPU Board Click to Enlarge |
CPU Board Video Connector 1J3 Early Series Defender Boards
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| Video On All Other Boards |
| An undocumented feature of all the 2 Decoder Williams boards (i.e. later series Defender games onwards) is that pin 7 of the video connector 1J3 carries positive Csync. All we need to do to make this JAMMA friendly is invert it. There are two ways of doing this: 1. Invert the Csync video signal from 1J3 pin 7 using the circuit below: |

2. Modify the CPU board to output negative Csync. This is easily achieved by removing link W1 from the CPU board. W1 is not so much of a link though as the schematics might suggest but a track on the PCB. There are holes on the PCB each side of the track though so you can easily reverse the modification by fitting a wire link or zero ohm resistor to bridge the gap. The two photos below show where you need to cut on later series Defender boards and Stargate and later games boards:
Later Series Defenders Click to Enlarge |
Stargate and Later Games Click to Enlarge |
Since we now have the means to make JAMMA friendly Csync on our CPU, all we need to do is wire the connector up as shown in the diagrams below:
1J3![]() ![]() |
A typical CPU Board for other games (layout may vary slightly depending on revision) Click to Enlarge |
CPU Board Video Connector 1J3 Stargate and Later Games
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| Coin Door Wiring |
The coin-door controls consist of the inputs from the coin mechanisms and the three switches (Auto/Manual, Advance and High Score Reset) which are used to control the pricing, difficulty and bookkeeping of the game. The Advance and High Score Reset switches should be momentary and normally open; whereas the Auto/Manual switch is latching. Each switch should be wired to ground on one side and the input to the ROM boards coin door connector 2J3, which is a 10 pin Molex connector. The connection is the same for all board variants. See the diagrams below for exact wiring details:
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2J3![]() ![]() |
ROM Board Coin Door Connector 2J3 All Board Types
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Robotron/Joust ROM Board (layout may vary with game) Click to Enlarge |
Sinistar ROM Board Click to Enlarge |
| Player Controls Wiring |
The player controls consist of the inputs from the control panel; each switch should be normally open and wired to ground on one side and the input to the interface board on the other. There are four types of interface board which are used in various games so the exact wiring for each will be dealt with separately below:
Note: All the pinouts shown here assume that you are wiring up an upright game.
3J2![]() 3J3![]() |
Early Series Defender Interface Board Controls Connector 3J2
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Early Series Defender Interface Board Controls Connector 3J3
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| Early Series Defender Interface Board Click to Enlarge |
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3J2![]() 3J3![]() |
Later Series Defender Interface Board Controls Connector 3J2
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Later Series Defender Interface Board Controls Connector 3J3
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| Later Series Defender Interface Board Click to Enlarge |
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3J2![]() 3J3![]() |
Stargate Interface Board Controls Connector 3J2
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Stargate Interface Board Controls Connector 3J3
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| Stargate Interface Board Click to Enlarge |
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3J2![]() 3J3![]() |
Robotron Interface Board Controls Connector 3J2 (Remove Jumper W1 to Enable P2 Cocktail Controls)
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Robotron Interface Board Controls Connector 3J3
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| Robotron Interface Board Click to Enlarge |
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3J2![]() 3J3![]() |
Joust Interface Board Controls Connector 3J2
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Joust Interface Board Controls Connector 3J3
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| Joust Interface Board Click to Enlarge |
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3J2![]() 3J3![]() |
Bubbles Interface Board Controls Connector 3J2 NOT USED |
Bubbles Interface Board Controls Connector 3J3
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| Bubbles Interface Board Click to Enlarge |
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3J2![]() 3J3![]() |
Sinistar Interface Board Controls Connector 3J2
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Sinistar Interface Board Controls Connector 3J3 NOT USED |
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| Sinistar Interface Board Click to Enlarge |
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| Sound Board Wiring |
The power supply for the sound board has already been dealt with, next we need to wire up the speaker, volume control and the control inputs from the ROM board. All quite straightforward here, but make sure you use a 50Kohm Logarithmic 1Watt Potentiometer here. If you are wiring up a Sinistar then you'll also have to connect the Speech board to the Sound board via the 40 way ribbon cable. See the diagrams below for exact wiring details:
Click to Enlarge Sound Board |
Sound Board Speaker Connector 10J2
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Sound Board Volume POT Connector 10J4
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 10J2 10J4 10J3 |
The cable between the ROM board and the Sound board carries the binary signals that trigger each individual sound. Simply wire each of the 7 wires pin to pin between the boards as shown below:
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ROM Board Sound Interface Out 2J4
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Sound Board Sound Interface In 10J3
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Robotron/Joust ROM Board (layout may vary with game) Click to Enlarge |
| Example Conversion |
In order to build a complete JAMMA loom the first thing we need to do is decide how we are going to lay out the boards. In a Williams cabinet the boards are mounted on a grounded metal plate making sure all the boards are bonded together, however if you do not have the metal plate this is not necessary since all the boards are grounded through their Molex connectors. You can either mount them on a piece of MDF, directly to the inside of the JAMMA cab or on a metal plate if you have one. The pictures below show two suggested layouts, though of course the final choice is up to you.
Suggested Board Layout Click to Enlarge |
Alternative Suggested Board Layout Click to Enlarge |
Once you have laid out the boards, mark out the cable routing, number of cables and length on some paper so you can cut all the wires to length.
Cable Length and Number of Wires Marked Out Click to Enlarge |
Now we are ready to make our loom. The best way is to cut all the cables first and make them into a rough loom using whatever colour scheme you have chosen. I just used red for everything except the ground wires which are black, however I have used a smaller gauge wire for economy on the controls and video wiring.
The loom cut and laid out ready for connectors to be fitted Click to Enlarge |
Terminate the loom's Molex connectors one by one ensuring that the wires are going to the right place as detailed previously in this document. DO NOT terminate the JAMMA fingerboard, volume pot or set up buttons at this point. Now connect the Molex connectors to the boards and take up any slack in your loom.
The Molex connector's all terminated Click to Enlarge |
Take up the slack in the loom and tie the cables together. This is best done with the boards connected to the PCB's Click to Enlarge |
Next we need to wire up the volume control and set-up switches. Remember that the Auto/Manual switch should be normally closed and latching, and the Advance and High Score Reset switches are normally open with non-latching switches preferred but not essential. The best method of mounting the switches is to build the three switches and volume pot into a small box, although you could add switches to your JAMMA cab and use the JAMMA loom.
The control box built and wired up Click to Enlarge |
Finally we need to wire up the JAMMA connector. The best way to do this is to use an ohmmeter to identify each wire from the Molex connector to the JAMMA loom. Identify and solder the wires in place one by one, being careful not to make any wrong connections.
The JAMMA Connector Click to Enlarge |
The completed loom Click to Enlarge |
Once our JAMMA loom is complete, and you are sure there are no mistakes you are ready to power it up. IMPORTANT! Just to be sure that you have not made any mistakes, power up the loom without any boards connected and measure the voltage at EVERY pin of the Molex connectors to ensure that all voltages are correct and there is no volts present where there should be none. When connecting all the various boards and cables up don't forget to connect the ROM and Interface ribbon cables to the CPU! Once this is done you are ready to go! CONGRATULATIONS!
The Completed JAMMA loom wired up Click to Enlarge |
| Disclaimer: Although I have done my best to ensure that all information contained on this page is correct, I can take no responsibility for damage to your game, its boards or yourself! |
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